A Gift for the Pope

As evening approaches bathing the Trevi Fountain in golden, afternoon sunlight, I contemplate the 50 different flavours of gelato in front of me. I've already eaten far too much during my time spent in Italy, and the top button of my pants starts to rebel the minute this idea begins to formulate. But hoards of locals are milling around the fountain of temperamental seas devouring their gelato and looking oh so happy, so I quash the guilt, safety pin my pants and dive into the palette of flavours. When in Rome...

Fontana di Trevi

With only two nights to spare, you could say that this was somewhat of a whirlwind visit, but I can proudly claim I did it! I saw everything I wanted to, enjoyed copious amounts of food and wine, and counteracted all the indulgence with walking everywhere. I recommend comfortable shoes.

Impressive fountains depicting muscled naked men are a common theme, and combined with the street musicians and heady temperature make for a very romantic city. Aaahh for an Italian romance – I would gladly be swept off my feet here in Rome, only emerging from my lusty fog in the evening to be wined and dined by ambient lighting. Of course, when you seek these things they cleverly evade you, but I found solace in the company of other travellers.

On my first evening I went to dinner with Michael from Hollywood, who I had met randomly on my very quick trip to Pisa a week ago. We definitely indulged on this evening (about 7 dishes between us!), and after consuming an entire bottle of wine to myself, I still found room for limoncello. Whoever can supply me with a lifetime's worth of excellent quality limoncello has my heart forever!

Strolling back to the hostel I bathed in the warm glow of the street lamps, and longed to frolic in the fountain at Piazza Navona. Don't worry, I was the picture of self control on this occasion.

Looking from the lane through an arched window on the third floor, I squeal with delight at what I see. In the ornate building across the way, the ceilings are embroidered with gold and cherubs, lit in perfect juxtaposition with the night sky. At this moment, I am in complete bliss.

Fontana del Moro (The four Tritons)

The next day it's time to start ticking things on my list, so I kick my butt out of bed and into productivity. The Spanish Steps – check; The Pantheon – check; Castel Sant' Angelo – check; limone slushie in the market – check; sleep in the park – check. By now it's late afternoon. I'm around the corner from the Vatican. I think I have absolutely no chance of getting in as I am told it's hopeless unless you are queuing at 8am, but I figure I can head over and take some photos anyway.

Lo and behold, queue? What queue? I walk straight in through security and that's when the queue begins to manifest behind me. I am told that I have brought a knife in and as the search for it begins, the queue at my rear continues to grow.

Perplexed and flustered, I try to remain calm as I pull piece by piece from my backpack. Nothing! Just as the guard attempts to put the bag back through, the pit of my stomach drops out and I suddenly feel very faint as I remember the hidden pocket... Wait! I rip it open and out pull out a sharp tomato knife wrapped in tissue. I apologise profusely, try to make a joke to these native Italian speakers (bad move) and hope that my mottled blood moon face reveals my innocence of intention. Surprisingly, I'm not arrested and there's no lockdown. Mr. Security simply directs me to the bin where I dispose of my weapon and join the end of the queue, enduring all the sticky beaks in line ahead peering in and gasping “It's a knife!”. It's times like this you wish you were Alex Mack and could dissolve into a puddle of water.

I did manage to see St. Peter's Basilica – I'm not even going to begin trying to detail this one- and I also went up the tower, all 551 steps, to the very top. What a breathtaking panoramic view of the city! This is by far, the best way to see Rome. Like a bird from above, I begin picking out landmarks and attempt to identify them.

Rounding out my evening I drink beers at a bar directly beside the Colosseum, and once again marvel at how bloody awesome it is to live the life that I do.

The Pantheon

A partial view from St Peter's Basilica Tower

My last day in Rome I finally check the last couple of items off my list – the Circus Maximus, the remnants of Ancient Rome on Palatine Hill, the Ancient Roman Forum and of course, the Colosseum.

Having hungrily consumed the HBO series “Rome” (watch it if you like blood and debauchery!) I revelled in walking the streets of Ancient Rome and imagining myself there in all it's glory.

Rome, I really really like you. Also, I threw a coin in the Fontana di Trevi, which means I will return to you. Let's write love letters until we are reunited.

Colosseum from Ancient Rome

Roman Forum

Um... The Spanish Steps.

Above the pit of the Colosseum

Recommendations:

• Rome accommodation.... anywhere that is near the Colosseum is prime location for walking to the city's sights.
• St. Peter's Basilica, Vatican City. Go late in the afternoon (4ish) and don't take weapons... Pay to go up the tower for an incredible panoramic view of Rome and you will exit inside St Peter's, so have a look around then and save yourself the queue.
• St. Peter's Basilica Scavi Tour. I had this recommended to me but was unable to do it as you must book directly via email through the official Vatican City website. If you know you are visiting Rome try to book 3 months ahead of time. No tour company does this. Basically you can go underground beneath the Basilica to the grottoes. Bones were found here and there is speculation that they belonged to St. Peter himself.

Lola Croft and the Ancient Ruins

First impressions of Naples.

Rich in history, fantastic underground pulsating vibe, friendly people, old buildings with crumbling facades and lots of character.

None of which I expected after the last few days of people warning me off it, expressing how dirty and unsafe it is. I have to admit I had started to get a little anxious on the train out here but wow, what a different sense I received about this place after exiting the metro!

Simply walking down toward my hostel laden with backpacks, a friendly old man closing his street stall called out to me and asked if I was looking for La Controra Hostel, which I was. He then proceeded to happily relay directions to me and pointed me down the street with a bright “Ciao!”. Then, imagining the worst trying to cross the busy peak hour traffic without a pedestrian crossing, every single vehicle (cars and scooters) smiled and let me pass through! Unbelievable!

I like this place already. It feels alive and gritty and I am instantly reminded of the feeling I had in Ecuador last year. It's almost as if the fact that people are poorer here makes them more driven to enjoy life.

I could only spend two nights here, and I definitely would have extended this stay had I not wanted to visit Rome on my way to Austria. The first night I hooked up with a couple of guys from my hostel, Yanoush from Switzerland and Mahmoun from Morocco - Mahmoun was cycling around Italy for a couple of weeks! We headed out to find some mid week nightlife, down the moderately lit streets and past a pile of rubbish in the middle of the road. There is a lot of unrest in Napoli which I do not know much about, but giant bins are frequently toppled over in protest, dumping their polluting stench all over the streets. We bar hopped a little and had our last drink for the evening in a fantastically overcrowded square. With shoulders pressed against locals making merriment and spilling out onto the pavement, I momentarily felt a part of that pulsating underground buzz I had sensed earlier. I tasted a drug and I wanted more!

My only full day in Napoli was designed around a visit to Pompeii. Having become fascinated with the history of this buried city during school, it was incredibly satisfying to finally be there in the flesh. Walking amongst the ruins I took the path less trodden, away from the advertised tourist attractions and into the less restored parts. Weaving in and out and around the various entrances, stumbling over long ago courtyards and admiring the preservation of the still intact art dressing the walls, I inevitably found myself behind the barriers. Somehow, Lola Croft (without breaking any of the rules) had explored her way into the secret parts, to the envy of the few on the other side of the tape who noticed her. Actually, it was pretty awesome to find myself completely alone amongst the ruins. It was almost as if I were discovering the remnants of an ancient civilisation. There were actually moments in which I found myself searching in crevices or hidden places for “secrets” (Tomb Raider reference) and looking over my shoulder when I heard a rustle, half expecting to drop roll, draw my pistols and take aim at a rogue tiger. After which I would no doubt have emerged the victor, but probably requiring a giant green health crystal from the top of a tree.

Gravel crunching underfoot (oh how I adore this sound!) I strolled into what used to be a garden at the rear of a rather large residence. There was a garden growing still, and I took refuge from the sun under a shady branch to have a snack. It was so quiet. Serene. Still. My thoughts began to run the wheel in my hamster cage brain and I found myself contemplating what it would be like to have your life so swiftly taken from you, in a situation so tragic, with very little warning.

What would I be doing with my life? Would I be playing out my dreams? Who would be by my side? If I had the foresight to know that in a matter of moments my breath would be my last, which life would I choose... family or work? Love or independence?

I guess when it comes down to it, we really do all want the same things. Even feisty, self reliant, make your own rules me.

I think about the two human casts that I studied earlier in the day and pale. The position of their bodies, hands out and solidified in defence, their faces a mask of terror. It was horrible and it was disturbing. But it prompted me to be grateful for my life the way it is.

Trade Centre of Pompeii with Vesuvius in the background.

A human cast.

Wandering around alone made me a target for charming, older Italian men. Vincenzo, 60ish, Keeper of the Keys to the Locked Doors grasped my hand and led me inside restored houses not open to the public, which were in incredible condition! After a couple of VIP visits, kisses on the cheeks and an invitation to be driven down the Amalfi Coast, it was time to say “Ciao” to the slipper tongued charmer, and locate the Bordhello.

Of course, this was a highlight for me! One of more than twenty-five discovered in the town, this whore house was aimed with the international traveller in mind. With it's detailed depictions above each door, every customer no matter their native tongue, knew exactly what to order from the menu! Now that is clever marketing.

Me inside an off bounds house, courtesy of Vincenzo.

Vincenzo and I

What shall I order tonight?

Emerging after six hours of exploration meant Lola was tired, but not too tired to miss the abundant number of youths on the train lighting up in the carriages, despite the no smoking signs.

This kind of rebellion merged with the colourful graffiti on many buildings along the way, added yet another intriguing dimension to my model of Napoli.

I'm not yet done with this city.

Recommendations:

• Naples accommodation @ La Controra Hostel. (They also have a hostel in Rome which was full when I went, but I would definitely try it out.)
• Pompeii!
• Naples Archeological Museum. I didn't have a chance to visit but I hear it's incredible and stores most of the finds from Pompeii.

Pompeii

Floater

Cinque meaning five, Terre meaning lands, Cinque Terre comprises of five seaside towns all connected by hiking trails along the Portofino Coast.

Yesterday I hiked the blue trail, which is the popular coastal route that most people have heard of.

The day before, I was afforded the company of five fantastic people sharing the dorm with me, and we got along so well that we teamed up and hiked together. Lorelei and Lisa from Canada, Nick and Pete from Burmingham, and David from Germany.

L-R Lorelei, Lisa, David, Nick, Pete, Me

The first leg from Riomaggiore to Manarola, is Via Dell'Amore, nicknamed the Lover's Walk.

Along the stretch hundreds of padlocks can be observed hanging from the fence- a symbol of locking your loved one to you and throwing away the key.

Due to erosion, the trail between Manarola and Corniglia is closed, offering hikers a 2min train trip between towns, or for the more adventurous, a 2.5hr long detour up through the mountain.

The detour was my favourite part about the entire walk. Although breathless and slimey from the uphill grind in the heat, once we reached Volastra, we had a steady gradient and an incredible view of the coast! Unlike on the rest of the trail, we passed not a soul, aside from the occasional wave to locals tending to their gardens.

As we traipsed the narrow trails through vineyards, grapes in their youth were beginning to droop the vines and the salty air began to reach us on the cooling breeze. From our vantage point we could see two of the towns and endless blue. The sky and the water were so incredibly blended that you could not tell where one ended and the other began.

Stopping for lunch in the second last town, Vernazza, I rewarded my efforts with the best mussels and clams that I have ever tasted, on spaghetti. It also gave us some respite from the sun that now, in the middle of the day, was blazing down upon us in a heated rage.

Rested and fed with renewed vigour, off we set for the final 2hr leg of the trail- up, up, up, up then down, down, down, down to Monterosso. The temptation of the cool, crystal clear water waiting to coat our fried skins at the end, was a particularly good motivator, and we arrived in no time.

Aaah such bliss to sink beneath the chill of the Mediterranean and relax the muscles. For the first time in my life, lead legs here was able to float due to all the salt! Now I can understand why people do it- it feels wonderful!

A perfect plan to end the day, once we had trained back to Riomaggiore, showered and dressed up a little, it was two beach ball sized margherita pizzas and several bottles of 2Euro Italian wine on the rocks for sunset. It's days like these which make you think that life really can't get much better.

I'm now on the train to Naples after having farewelled my new found accomplices. Actually, I'm heading down with Lisa and Lorelei until they depart at Rome. All this time sitting and looking out the window has given me a moment for contemplation- the first chance I've had in days.

Today I'm feeling a little in No-Mans Land. I left on this trip for a number of reasons – adventure, escape... but largely hoping that I would find some answers for which direction to propel my life into now. I have nothing holding me anywhere, and while that is incredibly exciting most of the time, I'm meeting people who are excited to return home after their six week adventure because they have lives to start. What do I have?

No return ticket to Australia (and no desire to go back there without a focus), no fantastic job to begin... At the end of my European adventure, I get to look forward to returning to London with no job, no money and nowhere to live. And most likely, the compass in my head still won't settle in one direction.

It's a strange (not yet morose) feeling to have absolutely no frigging idea what the hell I am doing with my life. I feel like I'm bridging a gap, but I have no idea how wide the river is.

I wonder how much building I can do alone before I tire of it.

Vernazza

Monterosso, final destination approaching!

Recommendations:   Accomodation @ Cinque Terre Holidays, Riomaggiore.

Wood and Salami

Well, my solo expedition has officially begun! I've just left mum at the airport and now I am alone... I'm feeling calm and collected, ready and excited! Welcome to a new chapter.

As it happens, I am not entirely on my lonesome as Elena is in Milano and her Aunt Romana has very generously offered for me to stay with them a few nights. I meet Elena's family and they are all so lovely! I'm even invited to lunch at Caroline and Guido's house and on the menu... Gnocchi! The one dish I have been longing to try here in Italia and I'm finally getting my chance. Caroline even prepares two variations- a pomodoro (tomato)/garlic, and a saffron beschamel sauce! Yummy!!!!

One thing that I, as much as I like to eat, cannot get my head around is the number of courses which are appropriate in a lunch and dinner meal. First you start with Antipasto, then it's Prima (often a pasta or salad), Secondo (a main meat dish) and Dolce (dessert). All of this with a side of bread! And Italians are very generous with their serves.

During my time in Milan I was afforded the opportunity to hang out with some locals (friends of Elena's) and my what fun I had! Elianora, Davide, Andrea, Stefano and Giulia took us to Yguana Bar where I had my first Italian Happy Hour. Here, that usually means three hours where you can buy a drink and receive free nibbles (often antipasto). At this place 10Euro bought me a delectable free pour cocktail and a whole buffet (the length of the room!) to devour my way through.

After a couple of hours there, it was off to Castello and a piazza that I cannot remember the name of. The nightlife here was buzzing with people everywhere! Basically, the piazza is surrounded by bars in which you purchase your drink and walk away and sit down with in public somewhere in the square. There is a gorgeous monument lit by lights in the park and the square is filled with the warm yellow glow of street lamps. A refreshing change to Australia, the people here do not appear to become so intoxicated that they fight, yell and stagger around. In fact for many, one or two drinks will suffice. For the Italians, it is about being outside and socialising after dark, not getting blind rotten drunk in the back corner of a pub with rotting carpet putting mould on your lungs.

Elena and I at happy hour

Jump at the Duomo

From Milan there is a tour which takes you out to Tirano and onto the Bernina Express. The Bernina Express leaves from practically the Italian border to Switzerland, and runs along the highest train track built, up through the Swiss Alps. I want to sing, skip and click my heels together with joy at the memory of this expedition! Thank you Ben for my birthday present allowing me this! The landscape is sooooo picturesque in Summer, and I can only imagine it being equally as stunning in Winter, when mountains are covered in snow and lakes have frozen over.

As you start out, you pass Swiss style houses set amongst brilliant green and the backdrop of the mountains. Everyone has these beautiful little veggie gardens growing deliciously fresh produce. It makes me really miss my herbs.

This is a little something like what I experienced....

Peaceful quiet but for the chirping of birds. Yellow flowers dotting the mountainside and higher up, glaciers. Freshly melted, icy water rushing down the mountainside and cascading over the rocks.

The smell of wood and salami which is replaced by the scent of pine as you near the top. The chill in the air from the snowcaps. Hikers whom I watched enviously from the window, walking in perfect sunlit conditions. Yes, there were even those funny ones walking with the two poles, prostrate bodies at angles of 30 degrees!

Hiking the Swiss Alps in Summer – straight on to my list of things to accomplish.

I think it's safe to say that I'm in love. I seem to be falling in love a lot on this trip. Well, I suppose it's every woman's dream to have a mad romance while on vacation in Europe. Too bad the scenery can't love me back...

All aboard!

Looking back

Bernina Express

The final stop of our tour is St. Moritz. This is a place that even the Swiss think is expensive!

40mins was plenty of time for me to look around at the gigantic blue lake and all the things I can't afford. I did however, succumb to the temptation of a little purchase. After all, who comes to Switzerland without buying Swiss Chocolate? So inside an expensively decorated Chocolaterie (I don't know the Swiss word) I walk, and 5Euro later I exit with four tiny hand made chocolates. Given, they were melt-in-your-mouth, but 5Euro?! What a splurge!

After 12.5hrs of out and about today, it's back to the hostel for an early night. Cinque Terre tomorrow! After today's inspiration, I'm quite looking forward to a spot of hiking.

St. Moritz

Letters to Juliet

Verona, the town which inspired Shakespeare's famous Romeo and Juliet, arrives with the knowledge of mother's impending departure. Soon, my solo expedition will begin. I've had a fantastic time travelling with my mum- the things we've seen, the food we've eaten, the crazy things we've laughed at. But I am looking forward to this next chapter alone.

At the hotel, we catch our first glimpse of TV in English. Strangely, none of the places we've been to even have subtitles! Here, we get several news channels bringing us up to date with world events.

The rioting in Greece has escalated. No longer the peaceful protest which it was a week ago when we were there, Syntagma Square is now filled with 20,000 very angry people demanding that they not be taxed even more because of their government's mismanagement of funds. Tear gas and molotov cocktails have become as much a part of the backdrop as roads are. ALL transport in Athens has been shut down (including ferries to the Greek Islands) and many tourism venues, including the Acropolis, are not open.

It's a good thing we planned our trip in the order that we did.

Bicycles are a common way to get around in Italy, and seeing little old men peddling home their groceries is something that I never seem to tire of. Our hotel lends us bikes for the day, and off we peddle with the wind in our hair (helmets are not compulsory- not even provided!) and goofy little grins on our faces, declaring to Verona our touristic nature. All is well until the bike path ends and we are forced to ride on the right hand side of the road with the cars. Unlike back home, these drivers seem to accept cyclists as equals, and we soon get our courage up. Cycling is a brilliant way to see the city- it's great exercise, it's much cooler than walking and certainly much quicker.

There are two highlights of my day.

Firstly, Casa di Giuliette, or Juliet's house. For those of you who have seen the film “Letters to Juliet”, you will know exactly what the drawcard is. Women flock from far and wide to pay homage to Juliet and ask for her assistance in matters of the heart. Once upon a time people could write letters to Juliet, either tormented by love or grateful for having someone special in their life, and leave them plastered to the walls, and tucked into nooks and crannys. Since the latest restoration in 2004 however, the walls remain bare to preserve the building. Instead, you can post a letter in the special mail boxes onsite, leave a note on her desk, or write in one of the books provided. I did the latter... For several Euro it is possible to take a tour inside the house and stand on the balcony with your love. I managed to take a photo of a random couple kissing on the balcony and am terribly excited about it! You say creepy, I say cute!

You can also locate Romeo's house, which we did, but all you can see is a big door and a big gate.

Casa di Giuliette

A kiss on Juliet's balcony!

Highlight number two of the day comes with returning to our locked up bikes to realise that mum's is permanently locked. She had the key, but despite every person we asked to help us, nobody could make it unlock. In the end we had to call the hotel, and not one but four people came to our rescue, including a burly man with a knife and a BIG pair of pliers. The streets came to a standstill as passersby tried to inconspicuously watch us all seemingly appear to be stealing this bike!

Our last night in Verona coincides with opening night of Opera Season, not coincidentally.

The beautiful old Arena (completed in 30AD) is the third largest Roman Amphitheater in the world, and it is here in which I will be watching my very first Opera. La Traviata, a tragedy, was a treat to be devoured under the stars of the night sky. With minimal amplification, the acoustics of the venue combined with the talent of the performers really worked at their best for an optimal feeling of live sound. Once again, this was another place that as mum and I walked up the stone steps from inside, and suddenly emerged into the air, just hit us in the face with it's energy.

Such a special place to watch theatre! Many concerts from worldwide superstars are frequently held at the Arena also.

Outside the Arena

Great seats!

Off to Milan today to send mum back to work and pay off the massive food and wine debt that has no doubt accrued on her credit card.

I'm going to end this entry with a few interesting tips that any future travellers to Italy may find useful.

1. No apparent designated lanes for traffic in the city makes for palpitating guesswork around the roundabout.
2. Be aware that when you dine at a restaurant you will have a coperto (bread and dining in fee) added to your bill. Usually 1.50 – 2 Euros per person.
3. When travelling from overseas to see a show at the Arena, don't book until you are in Verona. You will save about $100 per ticket!
4. Dangerous and perfectly suited to a backpacking lifestyle, alcohol is very cheap here. Even a basic Italian wine for 2Euro taste like the stuff we pay $15 for in Australia. A brilliant invention in my eyes, 25mL sachets of vodka, gin, rum can be purchased in a pack of 14 and stowed in your handbag or down your sock.
5. When catching a train, validate your ticket immediately at one of the yellow boxes. Not doing this can result in a pretty hefty fine, and in some places, the ticket men will wait for you prior to jumping on board to catch you out. I've been warned not to pay them on the spot and instead ask them to post it to you, as often they will rip you off and line their pockets.
6. When in a supermarket, you must often wear gloves to select your fruit and veg. Then you must bag it, weigh it, and tag it yourself before approaching the counter.
7. In any takeaway food store with a cash till and a bar displaying the goods, you must pay for what you want at the cash till first, then take your receipt over to the bar to collect your order.

City of Love, City of Masks

Aaah Venice, a city of love, the city of masks!

It can be explored fairly well in a day, however when I next visit (and I do intend to return), I am planning for a romantic couple of nights with my lover.

There are two main modes of transport in Venezia- by foot or by ferry. A city flooded by canals means that driving is rendered pointless. Nevertheless, there are still rather varied options for taking a trip by water.

Our journey began with a vaporetto (ferry) which took us from the station all along the Grande Canal and offered us views (and photo opportunities) that would not be possible had we not.

We were fortunate that it was a hot, sunny day as it made being by the water even more pleasant. Lapping at centuries old homes slowly disintegrating over time, it sparkled like diamonds as it reflected the sun beams.

Tourists in lavishly decorated gondolas passed by, propelled by gondoliers in traditional stripey dress, as we chugged beneath the Rialto Bridge.

Look at the throne!

Gondola approaching Rialto Bridge

We passed an outdoor market with stalls of white, which, for those of you who have seen the movie, I swear is the one that Johnny Depp jumps from the balcony onto in the beginning of “The Tourist”.

Disembarking at Piazza San Marco near the end meant that we were afforded a water view of the main strip in Venice, and also witnessed how wide the canals become when they open up and meet the lagoon.

Before I move on to the activities partaken on land, I must wrap up the details on water travel.

Water taxis exist, but are certainly for the wealthy, and gondolas are considered somewhat of a tourist trap. In fact, locals don't actually get around this way, usually taking the ferry instead.

Back when gondola was the primary mode of transport for locals, it was law that all must be painted black in order to avoid the flaunting of wealth.

Keeping true to history, today the gondolas remain black, but are decorated with anything from plush red carpet and gold gilted arm chairs, to black feathers and plush cushions!

It is important to settle a price with the gondolier prior to departure and get him to draw you a map of where he is taking you in order to not be ripped off. Grabbing a group of people to come with you also lowers your cost (approx. 70-90Euro per ride).

However if you are content to avoid the bells and whistles, a traghetto (paint chipped and basic seating gondola) will take you from one side of the canal to the other for 50cents. It was fun! People stand up in them, and there was a moment where the balance was uneven and I squealed a little prematurely thinking we would topple!

Johnny jumps from the white terrace to the tents.

Back in Piazza San Marco which is the main square, you will see the Bell Tower (offering birds eye views of the city), St Mark's Cathedral, the Doge's Palace, lots of ridiculously overpriced restaurants and a delightful string quartet to set the mood.

Mum and I entered the Doge's Palace with an audio tour around our necks, and emerged some 3hrs later utterly exhausted!

The palace is huge and very clearly a mix of gothic and renaissance in it's interior. There was a map room which dropped my jaw to the floor. An adventurers delight, two huge globes stood in the centre of the floor, and all around the walls and ceiling were hand painted maps of the world as they knew it hundreds of years ago. Each new Doge (ruler) would add to it what he knew.

Photos were not allowed, but I managed to sneak a couple in before I was told off!

The art really impressed me as well. It was everywhere, and so very detailed! The messages hidden within each one, that was current to the time, brought me an added respect for the artists. Even the art on the ceiling was spectacularly detailed. My neck hurt just looking up for a few seconds- I don't know how they did it!

And the Armoury!!! I can't even begin to explain how cool it was to see all the swords, rapiers, bows, crossbows, knives, muskets, rifles, armour! Hehe, I even saw a real chastity belt! Now THAT was pretty primitive!

Perhaps the strongest memory that stays with me when I picture Venezia, is the masks. They are sold EVERYWHERE, and there is a number of stores where they are made on premise and displayed spectacularly. I was reminded of Commedia Dell'Arte, with Dottore masks appearing to be a favourite! Being here amongst the drama of the masks, the storytelling, the enigma that is Venice, I feel soooo inspired to hold or attend a masquerade ball. I mean a proper one, with period clothing, a ballroom, and truly hidden identities. What fun!

Walking around, over all the little footbridges, and winding in and out of alleyways gives you a chance to look a little deeper, past the facade of this city. There was no mistaking the height of the water to the entrance of the buildings. It's getting very close- I'm talking centimetres. How long before it is time to rebuild each particular entrance point? Scaffolding was seen constantly, surrounding tall buildings. Another level? Doors could be seen rotted, walls crumbling, and side streets smelt musty and wet. Apparently even the popular tourist area of Piazza San Marco is showing tell tale signs. In the evening when the tide rises, water can be seen bubbling up through drains in the middle of the square.

Venezia is such a fascinating city from a constructional point of view. Full of intrigue and mystery, it would be easy to drown yourself with sorrow at the knowledge that some day soon, it will all be gone. An Atlantis of the modern world. Lover come my way, we don't have long.

Note the door

Look, I really was here!

A Feast for the Senses

Sun out, windows down, a delicate breeze and a full tank of fuel, and you have just the right ingredients for a drive in the Tuscan countryside.

I've seen photos, I've seen films- but none of it prepared me for the arresting beauty that bewitched my eyes and held it captive this day.

Imagine...

The air is fragrant with the scent of Jasmine. Flora in a myriad of shades lines the roadside, the fields- fuschia, lilac, scarlet, crimson, yellow. You can feel the warm sun on your back, hear the buzzing of flys, the rustling of oats in your ear. There is barely a sound beside peaceful tranquility and the high chirping of birds in conversation as they soar merrily above chequerboard meadows.

The land was brimming with so much life that you could feel it permeating your skin and seeping into your bones. I tried to breathe it all in, fill my person with it's smell.

Driving through that countryside, I cannot recall a time that I have ever felt more inspired... to write... to sing!... to run barefoot and shirtless through a meadow and collapse in a laughing fit on the soft, lush grass underfoot. Mum said it felt like she had come home. For me, it felt like someplace new that I would return to when the timing was right.

Perhaps one day I will have a house here; make a home for a while.

Surprisingly, property was very reasonable...

Private villas dot the hills, and from around a corner in the middle of nowhere, a beautiful old village will suddenly appear on the mountain. It seems as though wherever you have chosen to lose yourself for the day, the ding dong ding dang dong of bells floats to you along the breeze from somewhere.

With Savillio's suggestions to guide us, we were able to locate the famous winding road of Chianciano seen on many postcards and explore some of the villages where we found an abundance of interesting items!

Delicacies to tempt even the most strong willed of pelicans poured from shelf after shelf in specialty food stores- candy coloured pasta to rival Willy Wonka, jars of tartufo (truffles) for 3Euro (!), fresh fruit in vibrant colours, cheeses the envy of all platters, looootttttssss of local wine, a variation of cured meat so delicious it would render vegetarianism extinct.... Leather EVERYTHING (simply walking into a store made me heady)... A quill shop!

The latter was perhaps my most favourite, as it suited so perfectly the olde worlde aura of these towns. Inside there was not only a huge assortment of quills, but wax seals, ink, paper weights and scrumptious leather bound journals filled with thick, recycled paper.

Tuscany is a feast for the entire body!

With truffles galore, sitting out or in jars, for prices so cheap that you think you are in Thailand, one's curiousity could only take so much taunting before it was time to taste this mysterious ingredient. Neither my mother nor myself had ever sampled one before, so on our last night in Montepulciano we decided it was time. We ordered a giant pizza- tartufo bianche- a white pizza with truffle, and my GOD it was divine!!! Now I have yet another reason to want to live in Italy...

Our lunch this same day should also bear a mention, for a couple of reasons.

We were in Cortona and after getting ourselves lost again, gratefully stumbled across a beautiful looking restaurant, or Osteria rather (a place that serves food and simultaneously operates as an inn). A little over pizza, pasta and caprese insalata, we were so relieved to read a menu filled with a selection of gourmet meals.

Not having consumed steak for over two months, I jumped at the opportunity to order a rib eye fillet with prunes and a red wine and rosemary sauce. It was simply delectable, and it wasn't until I reached the halfway point that it became very clear that I was eating it rare. It's funny how mind over matter works- the instant I saw raw I automatically reacted as though that hunk of meat on my plate was a viper. Luckily, I had enjoyed the first few bites so much that I was able to overlook it, and thus consumed my first ever rare steak and loved it!

But the piece de resistance comes with the last 5mins of our visit, when I made a trip to the bathroom. This room was like a toy shop selling only dolls. Or perhaps there is more similarity to “Chucky”.

There they were, little girls in pinafores, hanging from the walls, dangling from the ceiling, poking up from the floor, draped along the benches and holding your toilet paper while they smiled at you in the mirror and watched you pee. Creepy doesn't even come close. Whatever you do, don't close your eyes...