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Thursday, 30 June 2011

A Gift for the Pope

As evening approaches bathing the Trevi Fountain in golden, afternoon sunlight, I contemplate the 50 different flavours of gelato in front of me. I've already eaten far too much during my time spent in Italy, and the top button of my pants starts to rebel the minute this idea begins to formulate. But hoards of locals are milling around the fountain of temperamental seas devouring their gelato and looking oh so happy, so I quash the guilt, safety pin my pants and dive into the palette of flavours. When in Rome...
Fontana di Trevi

With only two nights to spare, you could say that this was somewhat of a whirlwind visit, but I can proudly claim I did it! I saw everything I wanted to, enjoyed copious amounts of food and wine, and counteracted all the indulgence with walking everywhere. I recommend comfortable shoes.
Impressive fountains depicting muscled naked men are a common theme, and combined with the street musicians and heady temperature make for a very romantic city. Aaahh for an Italian romance – I would gladly be swept off my feet here in Rome, only emerging from my lusty fog in the evening to be wined and dined by ambient lighting. Of course, when you seek these things they cleverly evade you, but I found solace in the company of other travellers.
On my first evening I went to dinner with Michael from Hollywood, who I had met randomly on my very quick trip to Pisa a week ago. We definitely indulged on this evening (about 7 dishes between us!), and after consuming an entire bottle of wine to myself, I still found room for limoncello. Whoever can supply me with a lifetime's worth of excellent quality limoncello has my heart forever!
Strolling back to the hostel I bathed in the warm glow of the street lamps, and longed to frolic in the fountain at Piazza Navona. Don't worry, I was the picture of self control on this occasion.
Looking from the lane through an arched window on the third floor, I squeal with delight at what I see. In the ornate building across the way, the ceilings are embroidered with gold and cherubs, lit in perfect juxtaposition with the night sky. At this moment, I am in complete bliss.
Fontana del Moro (The four Tritons)

The next day it's time to start ticking things on my list, so I kick my butt out of bed and into productivity. The Spanish Steps – check; The Pantheon – check; Castel Sant' Angelo – check; limone slushie in the market – check; sleep in the park – check. By now it's late afternoon. I'm around the corner from the Vatican. I think I have absolutely no chance of getting in as I am told it's hopeless unless you are queuing at 8am, but I figure I can head over and take some photos anyway.
Lo and behold, queue? What queue? I walk straight in through security and that's when the queue begins to manifest behind me. I am told that I have brought a knife in and as the search for it begins, the queue at my rear continues to grow.
Perplexed and flustered, I try to remain calm as I pull piece by piece from my backpack. Nothing! Just as the guard attempts to put the bag back through, the pit of my stomach drops out and I suddenly feel very faint as I remember the hidden pocket... Wait! I rip it open and out pull out a sharp tomato knife wrapped in tissue. I apologise profusely, try to make a joke to these native Italian speakers (bad move) and hope that my mottled blood moon face reveals my innocence of intention. Surprisingly, I'm not arrested and there's no lockdown. Mr. Security simply directs me to the bin where I dispose of my weapon and join the end of the queue, enduring all the sticky beaks in line ahead peering in and gasping “It's a knife!”. It's times like this you wish you were Alex Mack and could dissolve into a puddle of water.
I did manage to see St. Peter's Basilica – I'm not even going to begin trying to detail this one- and I also went up the tower, all 551 steps, to the very top. What a breathtaking panoramic view of the city! This is by far, the best way to see Rome. Like a bird from above, I begin picking out landmarks and attempt to identify them.
Rounding out my evening I drink beers at a bar directly beside the Colosseum, and once again marvel at how bloody awesome it is to live the life that I do.
The Pantheon

A partial view from St Peter's Basilica Tower

My last day in Rome I finally check the last couple of items off my list – the Circus Maximus, the remnants of Ancient Rome on Palatine Hill, the Ancient Roman Forum and of course, the Colosseum.
Having hungrily consumed the HBO series “Rome” (watch it if you like blood and debauchery!) I revelled in walking the streets of Ancient Rome and imagining myself there in all it's glory.
Rome, I really really like you. Also, I threw a coin in the Fontana di Trevi, which means I will return to you. Let's write love letters until we are reunited.
Colosseum from Ancient Rome

Roman Forum

Um... The Spanish Steps.

Above the pit of the Colosseum

Recommendations:
  • Rome accommodation.... anywhere that is near the Colosseum is prime location for walking to the city's sights.
  • St. Peter's Basilica, Vatican City. Go late in the afternoon (4ish) and don't take weapons... Pay to go up the tower for an incredible panoramic view of Rome and you will exit inside St Peter's, so have a look around then and save yourself the queue.
  • St. Peter's Basilica Scavi Tour. I had this recommended to me but was unable to do it as you must book directly via email through the official Vatican City website. If you know you are visiting Rome try to book 3 months ahead of time. No tour company does this. Basically you can go underground beneath the Basilica to the grottoes. Bones were found here and there is speculation that they belonged to St. Peter himself.

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