Lola Croft and the Ancient Ruins

First impressions of Naples.

Rich in history, fantastic underground pulsating vibe, friendly people, old buildings with crumbling facades and lots of character.

None of which I expected after the last few days of people warning me off it, expressing how dirty and unsafe it is. I have to admit I had started to get a little anxious on the train out here but wow, what a different sense I received about this place after exiting the metro!

Simply walking down toward my hostel laden with backpacks, a friendly old man closing his street stall called out to me and asked if I was looking for La Controra Hostel, which I was. He then proceeded to happily relay directions to me and pointed me down the street with a bright “Ciao!”. Then, imagining the worst trying to cross the busy peak hour traffic without a pedestrian crossing, every single vehicle (cars and scooters) smiled and let me pass through! Unbelievable!

I like this place already. It feels alive and gritty and I am instantly reminded of the feeling I had in Ecuador last year. It's almost as if the fact that people are poorer here makes them more driven to enjoy life.

I could only spend two nights here, and I definitely would have extended this stay had I not wanted to visit Rome on my way to Austria. The first night I hooked up with a couple of guys from my hostel, Yanoush from Switzerland and Mahmoun from Morocco - Mahmoun was cycling around Italy for a couple of weeks! We headed out to find some mid week nightlife, down the moderately lit streets and past a pile of rubbish in the middle of the road. There is a lot of unrest in Napoli which I do not know much about, but giant bins are frequently toppled over in protest, dumping their polluting stench all over the streets. We bar hopped a little and had our last drink for the evening in a fantastically overcrowded square. With shoulders pressed against locals making merriment and spilling out onto the pavement, I momentarily felt a part of that pulsating underground buzz I had sensed earlier. I tasted a drug and I wanted more!

My only full day in Napoli was designed around a visit to Pompeii. Having become fascinated with the history of this buried city during school, it was incredibly satisfying to finally be there in the flesh. Walking amongst the ruins I took the path less trodden, away from the advertised tourist attractions and into the less restored parts. Weaving in and out and around the various entrances, stumbling over long ago courtyards and admiring the preservation of the still intact art dressing the walls, I inevitably found myself behind the barriers. Somehow, Lola Croft (without breaking any of the rules) had explored her way into the secret parts, to the envy of the few on the other side of the tape who noticed her. Actually, it was pretty awesome to find myself completely alone amongst the ruins. It was almost as if I were discovering the remnants of an ancient civilisation. There were actually moments in which I found myself searching in crevices or hidden places for “secrets” (Tomb Raider reference) and looking over my shoulder when I heard a rustle, half expecting to drop roll, draw my pistols and take aim at a rogue tiger. After which I would no doubt have emerged the victor, but probably requiring a giant green health crystal from the top of a tree.

Gravel crunching underfoot (oh how I adore this sound!) I strolled into what used to be a garden at the rear of a rather large residence. There was a garden growing still, and I took refuge from the sun under a shady branch to have a snack. It was so quiet. Serene. Still. My thoughts began to run the wheel in my hamster cage brain and I found myself contemplating what it would be like to have your life so swiftly taken from you, in a situation so tragic, with very little warning.

What would I be doing with my life? Would I be playing out my dreams? Who would be by my side? If I had the foresight to know that in a matter of moments my breath would be my last, which life would I choose... family or work? Love or independence?

I guess when it comes down to it, we really do all want the same things. Even feisty, self reliant, make your own rules me.

I think about the two human casts that I studied earlier in the day and pale. The position of their bodies, hands out and solidified in defence, their faces a mask of terror. It was horrible and it was disturbing. But it prompted me to be grateful for my life the way it is.

Trade Centre of Pompeii with Vesuvius in the background.

A human cast.

Wandering around alone made me a target for charming, older Italian men. Vincenzo, 60ish, Keeper of the Keys to the Locked Doors grasped my hand and led me inside restored houses not open to the public, which were in incredible condition! After a couple of VIP visits, kisses on the cheeks and an invitation to be driven down the Amalfi Coast, it was time to say “Ciao” to the slipper tongued charmer, and locate the Bordhello.

Of course, this was a highlight for me! One of more than twenty-five discovered in the town, this whore house was aimed with the international traveller in mind. With it's detailed depictions above each door, every customer no matter their native tongue, knew exactly what to order from the menu! Now that is clever marketing.

Me inside an off bounds house, courtesy of Vincenzo.

Vincenzo and I

What shall I order tonight?

Emerging after six hours of exploration meant Lola was tired, but not too tired to miss the abundant number of youths on the train lighting up in the carriages, despite the no smoking signs.

This kind of rebellion merged with the colourful graffiti on many buildings along the way, added yet another intriguing dimension to my model of Napoli.

I'm not yet done with this city.

Recommendations:

• Naples accommodation @ La Controra Hostel. (They also have a hostel in Rome which was full when I went, but I would definitely try it out.)
• Pompeii!
• Naples Archeological Museum. I didn't have a chance to visit but I hear it's incredible and stores most of the finds from Pompeii.

Pompeii