Medieval Immersion

I'm a prostitute. You're gonna get some.

Although a lucrative endeavour I've no doubt, I am glad to say that things are not yet so dire that I am led to turning tricks. These are the first words I hear on Italian radio as we drive in our little Fiat Panda, from Milano to Tuscany. Actually, it's such a catchy tune that it stays with me still, days later. A little part of me wishes that I could insert a sound clip here, so that I could sing it to you.

After the rush rush rush of our Greek vacation, it was all mum and I could do to stumble into our hotel room in Milan and not emerge for 18hrs. Except of course, for dinner at a lovely little pizzeria which was conveniently located right next door to our hotel. After the boxes and boxes of pizza we have consumed thus far in Italy, I still maintain that the pizza we had that night (so simple- tomato base, speck, raddicchio and mozzarella with a melt in your mouth dough) was the best yet. I am starting to miss Australia for it's diversity in food, however I disagree with those who argue that our pizzas are pretty much on par.

Milan was wet the two days we were there, and as most of it was spent in recovery, I don't have much I can write about it.

The countryside of Tuscany on the other hand, I could fill with pages and pages of vivid description and it would never be enough. As much as I enjoy the night life and buzz of a city, the country is where I feel most at home.

Taking the coastal route along the Portofino Coast, we drove through many mountains on the cliffside via a series of tunnels. I lost count after 30. Spectacular! Blue shimmering ocean on the right, it's shimmer bouncing off brightly coloured village houses, and forest like leafery in deep shades of green on the left and above us.

Ha- I've just recalled the radical driving of these Italians. Every time we entered a tunnel and the speed limit dropped by 20km/h, we'd be overtaken in the dark by speed demon locals! Once we had mastered our first few tunnels (there were plenty to practise in), it was as if we were inside the xbox playing our real life version of “Need for Speed”!

We arrived at our albergo (hotel) in Montepulciano nearing 7pm, which here means that the land is bathed in that beautiful warm gold of sun in late afternoon. Walking the streets at this time was magical. Montepulciano, with it's cobble stone streets, old crumbling brick exteriors, and wrought iron window boxes brimming with red and pink flowers, is like a time machine. It takes you back in history to a place when clothes were washed by hand and summer meant multiple festivities of feasting and music in the village square, or piazza as they are named here. So much a part of the old life are these houses and streets, that at first glance it would go unnoticed. But when the eye looks to see, the walls reveal a true secret of times gone by. Sconces in the walls still line every street, whispering memories of nights once lit by flaming torches. Simply recalling it still leaves me breathless.

The next morning hailed a day for organisation, so off I trotted down the alleys to the lavanderia (laundromat) with my bulging, black garbage bag. Wearing an oversized, off the shoulder black top and flowing, high waisted pants of the peach kind, hair in a loose top knot and far too big for me sunglasses, I must have looked like a local as I was stopped by tourists and asked for directions! I have to say, I did look pretty chic (coincidentally, as they were the ONLY clean clothes!), and I certainly felt pretty savvy for the rest of the day.

Later that evening it was time for a little wine and jazz at sunset. Our hotelier, Savillio, gave us many wonderful suggestions during the course of our stay, and this was one of them.

A little gem, the jazz bar was hidden away in a quiet corner near a church. With views from the mountain, we overlooked the picturesque countryside as it changed from green to gold to pink and finally deep, dark, black-blue. We consumed perhaps the most delicious white wine I've tasted (local Italian wine!), a selection of various salamis, prosciuttos, pancettas and other meats, delicate and fluffy hand-made pasta, and popped our grappa cherries. Blurgh! Grappa is like rocket fuel in your mouth and acid down your throat. Even I, with my philosophy of waste not want not, left that little glass discarded on the edge of the table. I did however, pop another cherry that eve- my limoncello one! Yum yum yum! This was a drink made for me- sweet and sour at the same time, with a little bit of bite. ;) Ti Amo Limoncello!

Jazz bar at sunset

L-R, Alessandro, Claudio and Davide

Today we are touring the country in our little Panda and trying not to get lost while we visit some more of Savillio's secret recommendations. Judging by our past efforts, wish us luck!

View from Montepulciano

View from Montepulciano