After a hectic and sleep deprived long weekend in Austria all I wanted was some restful quiet, and Lake Bled in Slovenia delivered.
Originally intending to stay just one night before transferring to the country's capital, Ljubljana, I ended up extending my stay by a night, and would have remained longer had I not a flight to catch to Turkey.
This place is the epitome of the word pristine. Unspoilt, with endless green, and water so clear that you can see the fish and pebbles below, the pure fresh air of Bled was a privilege to breathe.
Opting to stay at a hostel just outside of town meant a bit of walk in the heat of the day with Second Person (this is what I have nicknamed my 18kg backpack), but it was well worth it for the peacefulness at night. I was not even 500m out of town when Tom, Hosteller's owner, calls out to me and offers me a ride. I should mention that Slovenians also hold a special place in my heart- these people are super friendly!
Tom settled me in with a map of the area and excellent recommendations about places to see and hikes, and off I trotted to visit the Lake. There are swans everywhere in Bled! With it's Grad (castle) on the hill and Island Cathedral on the Lake, I feel like I am in some kind of fairytale. Perhaps the Swan Princess lives here...
To walk the circumference of the lake takes about 2hrs (6km), although for me it takes the afternoon. Once, the lake was rife with swimmers, but now it is not allowed... not that that has stopped anyone! By the Rowing Club there are boardwalks into the water, a series of miniature jetties perfect for dive bombing from. This is clearly a popular hangout for young people as the place was packed! Given that I was alone with no one to protect my stuff, and the fact that I was tinged a sickly shade of green (a side effect of bodypaint, despite my desperate scrubs), I decided to trot on past.
It wasn't long before a hidden path caught my eye and dragged me from the main walkway, down the bank and into the lake. The bushes were designed to conceal my bag from prying eyes, and so I tore off my boots, ripped off my clothes and submerged my hot, swollen feet into the cool water. Had I not felt the difference in temperature, I mightn't have known there was water at all, it was so clear!
I'd been told by a fellow backpacker that it is possible for a strong swimmer to make it to the island in approximately 20mins, so I decided to give it a go. I guess I'm a strong swimmer.
Pulling myself up on the wooden planks at the other side, I took great delight flitting about the small island barefoot and bikini clad.
I took my time swimming back and spent the next hour and a half completing the lake circuit. It was so nice to not have to rush anywhere! For two whole days, my time was my own, and I lazed in it lasciviously.
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| Where I put my feet! |
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| Twenty minute swim ahead |
Vintgar Gorge was only a 3km walk from the hostel and an absolute highlight of my trip to Slovenia. More gorgeous scenery to unwind from my coils in. I looked at the map only occasionally, and relished the getting lost and going the long way round.
After 8pm Bled Castle museum closes, and you can walk inside and to the top for free (which is perfectly timed for sunset). Looking down on the lake while it was eerily still and hearing the bell ring from the island church when everything seemed deserted, was magical under a pink sky, and a very different perspective from the vibrancy the day before.
Ljubljana was quiet when I was there for one day mid week, but I am told on weekends that it's rather lively. I found it to be quite lovely, all the same. After detoxing the past two days I was craving some company and decent conversation, so I went to a bar.
I sat there with my Aperol Spritz (yuck) and waited for somebody to appear alone so I could prey on them. I'd pretty much given up hope when I looked behind me and saw an attractive blonde woman with bright red lipstick writing “Who Am I?” in a notebook.
Slightly tipsy and having added to my self development in recent times, I decided that this was a question I too desired to answer. My last self assessment having been too long ago, I asked this alluring woman for a piece of paper, which of course turned into a conversation that lasted until 6am.
Ursa (it has squiggly bits above the name as she is Slovenian, but I don't have them on my keyboard) was excellent company, and I found in her somewhat of a reflection of myself. We found plenty to talk about and the rare moments of silence came when one of us departed for the bathroom after having consumed far too much Lasko (pronounced Lashko, it's a local beer and it's yum).
We ended up bar hopping until we found a group of guys and a guitar, then took our beers to a bench somewhere and sang the light into the new day.
Staggeringly tired, we said our farewells with promises for London visits, and I stumbled into my hostel bed.... For approximately 2.5 hours before I had to check out and head to the airport, destination: Turkey.
Let's just say it was an excellent night, but I really am getting too old for this!
Recommendations:
- Accomodation; Hosteller in Bled. Vila Velesova in Ljubljana.
- Vintgar Gorge (if you have time do the circuit walk)
- Swim to Bled Island!
- Castle Bled at sunset a must. Especially with a lover. There's a restaurant and the atmosphere up there is incredibly romantic.










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