A magic carpet ride with falafel in hand

Istanbul- the city where East meets West and three completely different religions are practised (and celebrated) alongside one another in harmony. A city vibrant in life, eternally busy and thriving on the varied cultures which occupy and visit this dynamic metropolis.

Catching a plane on a whim, I entered Turkey with very little knowledge about the language, the people and the culture. Perhaps that was irresponsible- perhaps a little mad- but doing so guaranteed me an intense initial experience. As I plunged myself into the thick throng of people bursting forth from the tram, second person and I (my backpack, remember) emerged, eyes alight with infectious energy, into Istanbul. Colours and smells swirled all around me, like bees to a honey pot, as I located my hostel for the night.

I stayed in an area called Karakoy which was considerably less touristy, and within good walking distance of both Sultanahmet and Taksim. My first full day was spent exploring the main precinct near Taksim Square - Istiklal Caddesi, a high fashion street branching out to smaller alleys overflowing with restaurants and markets. By day this area is busy, but by night the atmosphere is positively throbbing! I had an excellent night out somewhere on this street with a few guys from my hostel. If I recall correctly it was a local night club called “The Joker”. Wild! It was fun challenging the Turks to a bout of grinding and head banging... I'm still not entirely sure who won- the Istanbul folk sure know how to party!

View from Taksim side across to Sultanahmet, courtesy of Galata Tower

Galata Tower by night

On my second night a lovely American by the name of Nathaniel arrived at the hostel, and so as fellow solo travellers often do, we decided to spend the evening as each other's protection. Bulent, one of the hostel's owners, had given us a tip on where to find cheap local food so off we tramped to find the Balkan Restaurant. With only vague directions in a maze of eateries we nearly gave in after 30mins, but finally we located the place and YUM! The two of us shared bread, three plates of food AND dessert for under the equivalent of $10! To round out the night we parked our bums on two very colourful and comfy beanbags where I smoked my first nargile (shisha). It was peach and delicious, and I was surprised at how smoothly it went down- I had expected a burning in the throat!

Don't mess

No longer a virgin! (of nargile)

The following day it was time to focus my exploratory attentions to the south- Sultanahmet, the old town. I visited a traditional Turkish Hamam (Cemberlitas Hamam) where I was soaped and scrubbed by a woman; dead skin flaking left and right until I was reborn smooth as a baby. This was followed by a dip in the hot (38degrees) spa and a mud mask facial. Now, from all that I had heard and read, a visit to the baths typically meant that you were naked, with some people opting to wear a bikini if it made them more comfortable. Lola in her newly found skin likes to do things properly, so in the locker room I leave all my belongings and clothes, wrap my towel around me, and head into the sauna chamber. I knew I had missed a memo when I get inside and everybody is wearing these little black matching panties... As my attendant approaches and undoes my towel, I try to signal a warning to her that I am NAKED underneath, but she simply rips it open and drops it to the floor. Seeing my nude form she tuts a little, then sits me down and leaves me in the middle of the room starkers while she disappears. I try to ignore the alarm in my head.

Lady sitting over in the corner; I can see you mocking me with your eyes. Girl lying on your stomach; don't think I can't see your mouth twitching. Women washing yourselves directly opposite me; it's impossible not to notice you avoiding trying to stare at me in the buff. Constantly.

Soon my washer returns with my very own pair of black underpants (my saviour!) and all is right with the world again. Yeah, let's see you all look now. Emerging 90mins later, a very relaxed Lola goes to view the Blue Mosque. Yes, I was clothed for this visit.

Blue Mosque

Somehow I manage to squeeze in a trip to the Grand Bazaar and pine for all the beautiful lanterns that I want and cannot have. I gorge myself on ridiculously cheap seafood and fruit on the Asian side. I visit Hagia Sophia which is spectacularly incredible and makes me want an architect for a boyfriend, and I navigate the depths of the Julianus Basilica Cistern, where I come head to head with Medusa. Phew- what a cramped couple of days!

The lamps I have on layby

Hagia Sophia

Julianus Basilica Cistern

After all the whistles, kissy lips, personal tour offers and shouts of “Where are you from pretty lady?”, I am more than ready to escape the hustle of Istanbul and relax in the country. A 12hr overnight bus ride later and I am in Cappadocia, land of the beautiful horses. Ironically, there are no horses in sight.

Recommendations:

• Istanbul Asian Side via ferry.
• Visit a Hamam!
• Balkan Restaurant (off Istiklal Caddesi near Taksim Square end. Side street is opposite United colours of Benetton).

• Accomodation:Bada Bing Hostel in Karakoy, Istanbul.