Dear Diary,
So much to report! Yesterday I had a lunch date with Pedro, the owner of Johnnie's Place (hostel where I've been staying). I had promised to cook us lunch and in return he was going to introduce me to some local treats. Firstly we went to the nearby flea market to table hunt for the Shisha corner- this market was HUGE and covered streets and corners with locals selling their new and mostly used goods. Next, Pedro took me to a cafe up the road from the hostel where I had my first Portuguese Mojito (it is made with white port and it is....mmmm, so good). While there I noticed customers at the neighbouring tables all ordering coffee, which prompted me to mention to Pedro that I hadn't yet tasted Portuguese coffee. Well! Immediately two little espressos arrived at our table and shortly after, I had sampled the best coffee I've ever had. Not usually one to enjoy a short black, I cannot imagine having this any other way. The idea of tainting it with warm, frothy milk is appalling!
Fado (translating to “fate”) is a traditional style of Portuguese music found in Lisboa. A partnership of guitar and voice, it is particularly sorrowful with singing about loves lost or unattainable. Pedro knew of a nearby fado house which catered to locals, meaning that it was true fado and also free. Unfortunately, August is the month where most Europeans take their leave and when we arrived it was closed. Instead, I was given a bit of a streets tour which was fantastic! Pedro is very knowledgable and has a passionate way of explaining things. This is probably what makes him such a gifted storyteller... While he can relate stories in English (and no doubt all other six languages he speaks), it is not surprising to hear that speaking in his native tongue, in Portuguese, is what is closest to his heart.
Several of us (me and some of his friends) all crammed into his car and accompanied Pedro to storytelling night lastnight, where he was performing. Although I did not understand a word that any of the presenters said, watching Pedro weave his stories with his entire body and ever modulating voice kept me captivated. If only I understood the language! Many a time I looked around and observed the completely entranced faces of adults and children alike, eating out of the palm of his hand.
Today I took a day trip to Sintra, which is now at the top of my list of must-do's in Portugal! Only a 40min train trip from Lisbon, Sintra is home to a magnificent collection of castles, palaces and mansions set into the mountainous, green hillside. Walking up (and up and up) to the Moorish Castle, I wonder whether the workout I am getting is really worth the effort. It is. As I emerge from the wood into the clearing, mist is swirling around the parapets and watch towers like a hungry wolf circling it's prey and I cannot contain the gasp which tears itself from my lungs. Such spectacular beauty mystified this place so that I felt as if I were clothed in medieval dress, searching through the brief gaps in the haze for my knight arriving home in the village down below.
As it turns out, almost the moment I left the sun came out and shone hot and bright for the remainder of the day. How lucky for me to have timed it just so!
Fortunately, bright and shining was the perfect element in which to view the Pena Palace – a Disney meets Wonderland crazy mismatch of a place. Colourful and abstract, it's brilliantly coloured towers reaching high beyond the trees, I knew I would appreciate Pena the minute my eyes first set sight on a photograph of it. I do find it difficult to imagine how anybody would have taken the royalty living in it seriously mind you!
Setting off for Lagos in the south tomorrow. I'm looking forward to a bit of R&R by the beach.
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| Pedro and me swapping glasses |
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| Mystical Moorish Castle |
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| An example of the Pena Palace decorating |
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| Pena Palace |
- Sintra for one whole day minimum
- Chapito for drinks and sundown (Clown school and restaurant located in Graca. Great ambience!)
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