Beanstalks and booze

Having kept my room mates awake all night with this unshakeable death rattle (a trophy from my conquests during Sail Croatia), I'm on a train from Zagreb to Prague. In 12hrs I will pass through three countries and this time I am travelling via daylight, which means I am actually able to gorge on the countryside. After spending the last three days in intensive recovery, I only have it in me to be matter of fact. For this I apologise, but I will assure you now- it was well worth it!

Day 1 – Departure from Split to Hvar

Pulling in to the ferry port at 6am (overnight bus from Ljubljana), I have six hours to kill before boarding Mihovil, my life boat for the next week. I spend this time exploring Split when the sun is newly risen and the streets are empty. It feels like my own private medieval town- the shops are all built inside the fortress, still beautifully intact, and as I walk around I imagine I am in Merlin.

Once settled in to the closet room I share with Jess, we meet the rest of the travellers and crew, and toast our impending trip with a local drink that tastes (regrettably) like Tequila and herbs.

Most days are actually spent on deck basking in the warmth of the sun, reading a novel, writing in our little black books or jumping from the boat and swimming in the deep blue Adriatic. It is the variation from this pattern that I will outline for you in this entry.

Hvar we arrive to pre-sunset, and wow- this place is swanky! Yachts worth more than your average house are moored alongside us, and there is a club called Carpe Diem which is frequented by the rich and famous.

I spend the night dancing with new friends at a bar pumping 80's and 90's hits, before climbing the hill to Verenanda, a nightclub in a castle. This place was unbelievably awesome!!! Three shack bars, outdoor lounges, colourful lights, a DJ on a mass stage, two sexy sax players on podiums ad-libbing over the music and a water fountain/pool for cooling down in when things get too hot! Stumbled back on board about 5am- one hour prior to departure. Job well done.

Split all to me

Palace of Dionysius

Hvar

Hvar by night (taken from castle night club)

Day 2 – Hvar to Trstenik

Trstenik is a small town on a gorgeous pebble lined bay. My afternoon was spent clambering over rocks to find secret locations followed by a late night under the full moon dancing at the one and only beach bar in town. A short stroll through the woods leads you down a path to a shack and a cove, where music and lights are pumping all night long. Yep, another post dawn one.

Trstenik, pebble bay

Day 3 – Trstenik to Dubrovnik

Hmmm where to begin... Dubrovnik old town is just stunning! Hooked up with a few people from another boat and together we walked the wall and soaked up some of the most picturesque views in Croatia. Doing this in the middle of the day meant that we became very hot very quickly, so upon circuit completion we made our way down toward one of the beaches we had spotted from above. We appeared to be the only English speakers at this beach, which meant that we had discovered a local hangout! We spent a couple of hours relaxing in the water and avoiding the odd cigarette butt and/or bandaid that would float by. I do miss a sand beach for lying on, however here I had my first truly European beach experience laying on a recliner chair under an umbrella!

In the evening all the ships (and by ships I mean people from the ships) moseyed on down to Skybar where we enjoyed 1litre cocktails (in sandcastle buckets!) for the equivalent of AUD$12!!!

Bed before dawn on this night. ;)

Dubrovnik

Dubrovnik by night- note the full moon!

Day 4 – Dubrovnik to Mljet

A National Park island, Mljet was a nice quiet contrast to the previously hectic schedule. A couple of guys from my boat wanted to go inside the park and explore, as did I, so we hired bikes and rode around with the wind in our hair! It was nice to finally be a little active. With little night activity, this was a good opportunity for me to actually get some sleep, and try to heal this chest infection which was well and truly menacing me by this stage.

Inside Mljet National Park

Day 5 – Mljet to Korcula

Korcula, the town in which they say Marco Polo was born, is beautiful. Rather spread out, it has many different aspects to it's personality. By some parts of the water, you feel like you are rubbing shoulders and dining with the elite, in others, you are passing a quiet holiday home complete with jetty. Very clean, and very relaxed, I really enjoyed spending some alone time wandering the streets and shopping for props for the next nights costume party. Evening brought another bar and a another late night (pre dawn again this time!).

Marco Polo's town, Korcula

Day 6 – Korcula to Makarska

Aaaahhh Makarska... this felt like a resort holiday, and was the perfect location for water sports. The maximum exertion I achieved was peddling a mobile water slide around the sea for half an hour. That was fun. Before dinner and the inevitable partying, I decided to climb the hill known for cliff jumping and catch a view of the whole town. This solitary walk was delightful; such varied landscape from what I had seen thus far on the trip. Afterward it was time to don my pirate costume for the nautical themed party, and make my way to DEEP, a nightclub in a cave! Seriously, is it any wonder that I partied so hard when I had such spectacular venues to do so in? It would have been a crime not to! Suffice to say, return to boat was definitely far beyond dawn on this occasion. When I did stumble back on board, it had started to rain, the first dreary weather of the sail, but it was lovely! The sky had that pinky green glow of new day in partnership with storm. My partner in crime Jess (another one, not roomy Jess) and I persuaded one another to jump in and swim and oh how perfect the water was. The part we hadn't thought out was how to get back on the boat, and we ended up scrambling up a tire on the vertical face of the dock! Somehow I managed to embed six splinters deep inside my foot, but it was well worth the experience.

Makarska

Secret lookout

Me and the blowhole at the Cliff Jumping Hill

Pirate Lola and roomie Jess

Day 7 – Makarska to Split

Arriving back in to our port of departure felt strangely final. We still had one more night, but everyone felt it... we were back. The shenanigans of the week began to dissipate into distant memory as we said our goodbyes and retired to our beds utterly ruined.

Split by night

Split wharf

In summation...

I loved every minute of Sail Croatia- the tiny cabins, the violent rocking at sea, the plunging into the ocean, the dancing, the drinking, the mischief, the solitary moments for introspection... Lola really came into her own on this trip. She began this entire journey as a planted seed looking for the sun, and now she has grown beyond a sapling. She is healthy (apart from the chest infection) and growing up and up and up and before any of us know it, I predict she will rival the strongest beanstalk!

Sail away, sail away, sail away

Coercing my fingers to take to keyboard has taken quite a bit of persuasion and focus, but finally I have managed to tear myself away from sunbathing on the deck of my boat to do some updating before I drink away all the brain cells connected to memory.
Well, here I am, floating on an opaque sea in Croatia, gliding past barren, rocky mountains and the occasional hot pink lilo which has made it's escape from some poor shipmate's clutches.
Looking at the spotted cliffs in wonder, it finally dawns on me why this place is called the Dalmation Coast.
Bikini bodies speckle the deck like sea lions soaking up the sun, and I toy once again with the idea of an exotic holiday fling. Perfect conditions... but for the fact that all these sailboats represent every state of Australia. I guess Don Juan will have to wait.
It's so peaceful to be sailing, just floating my days away, with no care or concern in the world. The only thoughts consuming my mind revolve around which rung of the rail to plunge from this time, and the reapplication of sunscreen.
I could really get used to this lifestyle. Once again, I call upon my Spanish benefactor- wherefore art thou? Rescue me from my bohemian way of life and deliver me to paradise! Thanks.

My boat, Mihovil, in port at Split

The life

Trstenik. This is what I had to put up with

Umm... yes I'm in Europe baby!

Days are whiled away relaxing but late afternoon demands the resurgence of drinking, challenging us to top the wild antics accomplished the night before. Cocktails in buckets, beach shack bars blasting the bass, dance parties in castles complete with swimming pool... this has been my nightlife experience thus far. I'm halfway in and I've been told that it's only getting better. I'll be sure to report back soon. All I can say is that right now I've backed up three MASSIVE nights with barely pre-dawn arrival on board. I'm 25 and firing on all cylinders like a kid on schoolies, though I'm afraid I don't bounce back quite as well as I remember, and lastnight I had to take it easy as I've developed a head cold. All play and no rest makes Lola a tired girl. Still, I'm relishing all of this impish mischief that I'm embroiled in.

The first of 3 litres consumed. Each.

Verenandah in Hvar. Nightclub in a castle.

Constantly surrounded by large, hard penises

Perhaps one of the most remarkable places that I have stayed, Cappadocia is like Star Wars desert meets porn film set. Have you seen those photos of hot air balloons in the sky above giant rocky phalluses? Yes, this is the heaven, erm haven I speak of.

Known for it's cave dwellings, accommodation in the area offers visitors a chance to sleep in cave rooms. Due to the limited amount of time I had here (2 nights, 3 days) after settling in to my very own (faux) cave dwelling I walked to the Goreme Open Air Museum, which is essentially a whole series of cave churches and residences no longer in use. These places are designed with excellent insulation and their main purpose was to conceal. Cleverly carved into the rock, these homes provided protection from scouting enemies, as they simply looked like rock formations. Vanessa and I (another lone traveller at the same hostel) revisited our childhood scrambling over some of these formations off the beaten path and climbing into their nooks and crannies.

Vanessa and I at the Goreme Open Air Museum

Pottery grows on trees here

If you ever visit Cappadocia, I highly recommend undertaking the Green Tour. It's very well priced and you are able to cover lots of km by shuttle bus to visit places you wouldn't get to see on foot. A practically bird's eye view of Pigeon Valley, a guided tour of Derinkuyu Underground City (massive refuge city still being excavated below ground) and a hike through Ihlara Valley to a delicious al fresco restaurant serving local cuisine are some of the highlights.

Pigeon Valley

Ihlara Valley

Green Tour lunch with new friends from New York

Other memorable experiences include....

• Ordering a traditional pottery kebap for dinner and not realising that the whole thing came enclosed in a... pot. Then cracking said pot with terrible technique and crunching on the pottery shards in my meal throughout the course of the night.
• Climbing to the hill above our hostel to the best sunset spot, and riding a random local's white horse (that's one sighting!) along the ridge as the red sun dipped behind the horizon.
• My late night escapade with roomie Liz and two of the local boys who worked at the hostel. We grabbed some beers after they knocked off and they took us to a secret spot on the top of a nearby hill which overlooked the town of Goreme. The stars were so bright!
• My final day spent relaxing by the pool and recalling childhood games such as Marco Polo and Cargo, Battleship & Submarine, playing table tennis, writing in the very cool cabanas in the garden and swimming some more. Oh and eating. Mustn't forget the eating.

My hostel, complete with erection

Shot from horseback

As all good things must come to an end, I am now on the overnight bus back to Istanbul so I can fly out of Turkey and into Croatia. I really hope that nothing goes wrong, as I have left only four hours between my arrival to the city and the departure of my flight. Nothing like flying by the seat of your pants! (Although I'd prefer to actually catch the airplane as these are new pants and remain, as yet, untested for flight...)

Recommendations:

• Accommodation: Rock Valley Pension in Goreme, Cappadocia.
• Cappadocia Green Tour (approx 70TL).
• Cappadocia Open Air Museum, Goreme.

  

  Rugs a million

  
  

  

  It's hard not to laugh

  
  

A magic carpet ride with falafel in hand

Istanbul- the city where East meets West and three completely different religions are practised (and celebrated) alongside one another in harmony. A city vibrant in life, eternally busy and thriving on the varied cultures which occupy and visit this dynamic metropolis.

Catching a plane on a whim, I entered Turkey with very little knowledge about the language, the people and the culture. Perhaps that was irresponsible- perhaps a little mad- but doing so guaranteed me an intense initial experience. As I plunged myself into the thick throng of people bursting forth from the tram, second person and I (my backpack, remember) emerged, eyes alight with infectious energy, into Istanbul. Colours and smells swirled all around me, like bees to a honey pot, as I located my hostel for the night.

I stayed in an area called Karakoy which was considerably less touristy, and within good walking distance of both Sultanahmet and Taksim. My first full day was spent exploring the main precinct near Taksim Square - Istiklal Caddesi, a high fashion street branching out to smaller alleys overflowing with restaurants and markets. By day this area is busy, but by night the atmosphere is positively throbbing! I had an excellent night out somewhere on this street with a few guys from my hostel. If I recall correctly it was a local night club called “The Joker”. Wild! It was fun challenging the Turks to a bout of grinding and head banging... I'm still not entirely sure who won- the Istanbul folk sure know how to party!

View from Taksim side across to Sultanahmet, courtesy of Galata Tower

Galata Tower by night

On my second night a lovely American by the name of Nathaniel arrived at the hostel, and so as fellow solo travellers often do, we decided to spend the evening as each other's protection. Bulent, one of the hostel's owners, had given us a tip on where to find cheap local food so off we tramped to find the Balkan Restaurant. With only vague directions in a maze of eateries we nearly gave in after 30mins, but finally we located the place and YUM! The two of us shared bread, three plates of food AND dessert for under the equivalent of $10! To round out the night we parked our bums on two very colourful and comfy beanbags where I smoked my first nargile (shisha). It was peach and delicious, and I was surprised at how smoothly it went down- I had expected a burning in the throat!

Don't mess

No longer a virgin! (of nargile)

The following day it was time to focus my exploratory attentions to the south- Sultanahmet, the old town. I visited a traditional Turkish Hamam (Cemberlitas Hamam) where I was soaped and scrubbed by a woman; dead skin flaking left and right until I was reborn smooth as a baby. This was followed by a dip in the hot (38degrees) spa and a mud mask facial. Now, from all that I had heard and read, a visit to the baths typically meant that you were naked, with some people opting to wear a bikini if it made them more comfortable. Lola in her newly found skin likes to do things properly, so in the locker room I leave all my belongings and clothes, wrap my towel around me, and head into the sauna chamber. I knew I had missed a memo when I get inside and everybody is wearing these little black matching panties... As my attendant approaches and undoes my towel, I try to signal a warning to her that I am NAKED underneath, but she simply rips it open and drops it to the floor. Seeing my nude form she tuts a little, then sits me down and leaves me in the middle of the room starkers while she disappears. I try to ignore the alarm in my head.

Lady sitting over in the corner; I can see you mocking me with your eyes. Girl lying on your stomach; don't think I can't see your mouth twitching. Women washing yourselves directly opposite me; it's impossible not to notice you avoiding trying to stare at me in the buff. Constantly.

Soon my washer returns with my very own pair of black underpants (my saviour!) and all is right with the world again. Yeah, let's see you all look now. Emerging 90mins later, a very relaxed Lola goes to view the Blue Mosque. Yes, I was clothed for this visit.

Blue Mosque

Somehow I manage to squeeze in a trip to the Grand Bazaar and pine for all the beautiful lanterns that I want and cannot have. I gorge myself on ridiculously cheap seafood and fruit on the Asian side. I visit Hagia Sophia which is spectacularly incredible and makes me want an architect for a boyfriend, and I navigate the depths of the Julianus Basilica Cistern, where I come head to head with Medusa. Phew- what a cramped couple of days!

The lamps I have on layby

Hagia Sophia

Julianus Basilica Cistern

After all the whistles, kissy lips, personal tour offers and shouts of “Where are you from pretty lady?”, I am more than ready to escape the hustle of Istanbul and relax in the country. A 12hr overnight bus ride later and I am in Cappadocia, land of the beautiful horses. Ironically, there are no horses in sight.

Recommendations:

• Istanbul Asian Side via ferry.
• Visit a Hamam!
• Balkan Restaurant (off Istiklal Caddesi near Taksim Square end. Side street is opposite United colours of Benetton).

• Accomodation:Bada Bing Hostel in Karakoy, Istanbul.

Land of Swans and Fairytales

After a hectic and sleep deprived long weekend in Austria all I wanted was some restful quiet, and Lake Bled in Slovenia delivered.

Originally intending to stay just one night before transferring to the country's capital, Ljubljana, I ended up extending my stay by a night, and would have remained longer had I not a flight to catch to Turkey.

This place is the epitome of the word pristine. Unspoilt, with endless green, and water so clear that you can see the fish and pebbles below, the pure fresh air of Bled was a privilege to breathe.

Opting to stay at a hostel just outside of town meant a bit of walk in the heat of the day with Second Person (this is what I have nicknamed my 18kg backpack), but it was well worth it for the peacefulness at night. I was not even 500m out of town when Tom, Hosteller's owner, calls out to me and offers me a ride. I should mention that Slovenians also hold a special place in my heart- these people are super friendly!

Tom settled me in with a map of the area and excellent recommendations about places to see and hikes, and off I trotted to visit the Lake. There are swans everywhere in Bled! With it's Grad (castle) on the hill and Island Cathedral on the Lake, I feel like I am in some kind of fairytale. Perhaps the Swan Princess lives here...

To walk the circumference of the lake takes about 2hrs (6km), although for me it takes the afternoon. Once, the lake was rife with swimmers, but now it is not allowed... not that that has stopped anyone! By the Rowing Club there are boardwalks into the water, a series of miniature jetties perfect for dive bombing from. This is clearly a popular hangout for young people as the place was packed! Given that I was alone with no one to protect my stuff, and the fact that I was tinged a sickly shade of green (a side effect of bodypaint, despite my desperate scrubs), I decided to trot on past.

It wasn't long before a hidden path caught my eye and dragged me from the main walkway, down the bank and into the lake. The bushes were designed to conceal my bag from prying eyes, and so I tore off my boots, ripped off my clothes and submerged my hot, swollen feet into the cool water. Had I not felt the difference in temperature, I mightn't have known there was water at all, it was so clear!

I'd been told by a fellow backpacker that it is possible for a strong swimmer to make it to the island in approximately 20mins, so I decided to give it a go. I guess I'm a strong swimmer.

Pulling myself up on the wooden planks at the other side, I took great delight flitting about the small island barefoot and bikini clad.

I took my time swimming back and spent the next hour and a half completing the lake circuit. It was so nice to not have to rush anywhere! For two whole days, my time was my own, and I lazed in it lasciviously.

Where I put my feet!

Twenty minute swim ahead

Vintgar Gorge was only a 3km walk from the hostel and an absolute highlight of my trip to Slovenia. More gorgeous scenery to unwind from my coils in. I looked at the map only occasionally, and relished the getting lost and going the long way round.

After 8pm Bled Castle museum closes, and you can walk inside and to the top for free (which is perfectly timed for sunset). Looking down on the lake while it was eerily still and hearing the bell ring from the island church when everything seemed deserted, was magical under a pink sky, and a very different perspective from the vibrancy the day before.

Ljubljana was quiet when I was there for one day mid week, but I am told on weekends that it's rather lively. I found it to be quite lovely, all the same. After detoxing the past two days I was craving some company and decent conversation, so I went to a bar.

I sat there with my Aperol Spritz (yuck) and waited for somebody to appear alone so I could prey on them. I'd pretty much given up hope when I looked behind me and saw an attractive blonde woman with bright red lipstick writing “Who Am I?” in a notebook.

Slightly tipsy and having added to my self development in recent times, I decided that this was a question I too desired to answer. My last self assessment having been too long ago, I asked this alluring woman for a piece of paper, which of course turned into a conversation that lasted until 6am.

Ursa (it has squiggly bits above the name as she is Slovenian, but I don't have them on my keyboard) was excellent company, and I found in her somewhat of a reflection of myself. We found plenty to talk about and the rare moments of silence came when one of us departed for the bathroom after having consumed far too much Lasko (pronounced Lashko, it's a local beer and it's yum).

We ended up bar hopping until we found a group of guys and a guitar, then took our beers to a bench somewhere and sang the light into the new day.

Staggeringly tired, we said our farewells with promises for London visits, and I stumbled into my hostel bed.... For approximately 2.5 hours before I had to check out and head to the airport, destination: Turkey.

Let's just say it was an excellent night, but I really am getting too old for this!

Recommendations:

• Accomodation; Hosteller in Bled. Vila Velesova in Ljubljana.
• Vintgar Gorge (if you have time do the circuit walk)
• Swim to Bled Island!
• Castle Bled at sunset a must. Especially with a lover. There's a restaurant and the atmosphere up there is incredibly romantic.

My Body as a Canvas

What is in a photograph, a snap shot in time?

A story?

A memory?

An emotion?

As I stand in the same place I've been for the last five hours, naked but for the cotton between my buttocks, clad only in renaissance artwork and being captured continually by photographers professional and amateur alike, I think that the emotion for some would be excitable. I have no doubt that there is the odd individual skulking around here with his SLR, zooming in on our breasts and behinds and compiling his own private porn collection.

The thought of this makes me smile.

Call me warped, but it's fucking wonderful to feel so free! At the World Bodypainting Festival (Portschach, Austria) the lines of propriety are blurred and liberties are encouraged. I am me, you are you and we decide who we are, not “society”. It's nice to not take life so seriously.

But I digress, I'm naked, and that's the part that you're interested in.

My first day sees me paired with an artist named Marta Gejdosova and her assistant husband Miro (I like that concept!) from Slovakia. It is her debut to the World awards too, and I instantly feel comfort in the blind leading the blind. The day begins sunny and temperate at 10:00, but quickly declines to cloudy and arctic, particularly when you are wearing next to nothing for several hours. By the time “brushes down” is called and we visit the judges and pose for the media, it is 18:00 and it's bucketing down. My resilience for cold reached new depths during this weekend!

After all the official stuff is completed I make my way along with the other models to the main stage to perform (jiggle) for the audience. Day concludes at approximately 21:30, and though I am tired, I meet up with my Couchsurfer host, Kathrin, for some beers and the neon show. Now THIS was spectacular! Fluoro colours burst from the stage in very well planned acts including dance routines, hula hoops, ribbon twirling and pole dancing. The pole dancing act captivated me entirely in it's creativity and elegance, and I have since been contemplating classes... although I'm not sure that I will ever be flexible enough to pull off what this woman accomplished!

In bed by 2am and up five hours later to do it all again.

Miro, Marta and Me

An artist at work

Madonna and child

Day 1

Neon was difficult to capture, but you get an idea.

Over the next two days I modelled in the Fashion Show as Lucifer's wife (this was FUN), and acted as a promotional model for a couple of companies. This was, by far, the most successful campaign I have ever been involved in. It's amazing how people just love to take a flyer from a prettily painted girl... I was fortunate enough to have the wonderfully talented and interesting Wolf (Wolf's Bodymagic- check out his facebook page!) as my artist for the last two days, and I certainly hope to model for him again in future. Any friends in Aus interested, he may be headed to Melbourne later this year...

Lucifer and Wife

Promo girl, Day 2

Me and my creator, Day 3

While the majority of my trip was work, there was still time for play, and my wonderful new friend Kaddi (Kathrin, who I couchsurfed with) made this happen for me. After the festival closed on the second night, we headed out to a bar nearby with a bunch of her friends to get a little more blind. Ever heard of an “Infusion”? Take a shot glass of lime juice (fresh is best), combine it in your mouth with a sachet of sugar (that's one teaspoon if you don't have a packet), hold it while you add a shot of vodka and shake it all around vigorously in your mouth. Knock it back with a growl as your head spins on your neck. I LOVE this. I'm bringing Infusion to Australia and making it big.

My time in Carinthia, though short, was wonderful. The countryside is perfect for hiking and the lakes are stunning. And the people! Oh, how I adore Carinthians- they are the friendliest of all the people I have met thus far. Everyone is smiling, greeting you in the street and they genuinely seem to enjoy life. There is a Carinthian proverb that sums them up nicely-

“ You can gladly settle where people sing, as angry people don't know any songs.”

I'm coming back.

Stefan, Kaddi and I

The final hours of my final day at WBF I spent circulating through the crowds like one of Picasso's paintings come to life. Shaggy was playing on the main stage and I had no inhibitions about dancing in this state. In fact, I found the entire body painting experience to be extraordinarily liberating. Never before had I walked around in public, starkers, and not cared.

From the moment that I first stripped down and bared my white, imperfect body to the world, the healing process had begun. All those years of hating on myself... wishing I was tanner, had bigger boobs, had less moles... seemed to fall away the longer I stood there. I began to embrace myself for who I am, and love my body for all it enables me to do every single day.

If I could look at the other models, at each and every woman in their abundance of different shapes and sizes, and admire how divinely beautiful they all looked, then by that logic, had I seen myself would I not have thought I was beautiful too?

Yes, this experience delivered far beyond fun and flirtation with the risque. This experience delivered a piece of myself that I had been missing for most of my life.

As this trip sails along, I am finding parts of buried treasure that I never imagined to covet. From this point forth, I deem myself a pirate on the tumultuous seas of life, and I will fight fight fight for what is mine and never relinquish! Arrrrr!!!

WBF on Lake Worthersee, Portschach, Austria